Asphalt is a relatively cheap to pave the driveway or asphalt corridor outside his home and properly installed option can last decades. Like many building projects, the longevity of asphalt paving project is in the Foundation. Properly prepared based asphalt can withstand the weight of vehicles and people for a long period of time. Using the right techniques to excavate, lay a foundation and finally add the asphalt ensure a project of flexible pavement.
- Map the area where you want to install your asphalt. Use paint mark or wooden stakes tied with nylon cords to create a pattern that indicates where the asphalt will be installed.
- Push outside its installation depth of 20 inches. Use a tape measure to maintain uniform throughout the area of the entire installation depth. The soil will get firmer and relatively compact, providing a solid base for the asphalt.
- Tamp the surface of the ground with a hand tamper or plate compactor to create a solid foundation. Use a level to make sure the floor is completely flat in all areas.
- Cover the excavated geo-tech fabric area, also called filter fabric or gardening. This tissue prevents weeds growing on the asphalt and helps to drain rainwater.
- Add a layer of 10 inches of gravel to the excavated trench, working in multiple thin layers. Pour a 2-inch layer of gravel, extend out evenly over the entire surface with a shovel or hoe and then compact it or push it to keep all levels. Add four layers of 2 inches, compacting each, until it reaches the gravel 10 inches thick. The gravel helps drainage and helps to withstand the pressure that is placed on the asphalt.
- Measure 6 inches from each edge of the excavated area and mark this place with marking paint. The gravel should extend beyond the edge of the asphalt for better support. Only install asphalt marked lines.
- Pour the asphalt on the surface, filling only the marked lines. Use the same procedure used for gravel and compacting thin layers chickens each, to fill the excavated area. The asphalt must sit ¼ to ½ inch of the surrounding soil to allow drainage. Continue until the area is completely covered. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding how long to avoid traffic on the new asphalt.
A raised patio set above the ground to prevent accumulation of water and smudge on the patio surface. You can build playgrounds raised stone, concrete pavers or bricks. To build a raised stone patio, you need to start with the construction of retaining walls to prevent material within the yard space to separate and fall victim to gravity over time.
Building a stone patio built in their property can take as long as a few weeks, depending on the type of stone you choose. For best results, build your stone courtyard cut stone erected in brick dimensions.
- Digging one trench width 30 cm (1 foot) around the perimeter of the yard site with a hoe or shovel. Digging of about 15 cm (6 inches) along the entire length of the trench.
- Check the bottom of the trench with a level. Remove dirt as necessary to level the trench along its entire length. Make sure the whole trench is a constant 30 cm (1 foot) wide and adjust as needed.
- Compact the soil at the bottom of the trench using a hand tamper soil. Add a wide end of ram against the bottom of the trench compact and firm up the ground until it feels hard and resistant to change.
- Place a layer of 7.5 cm (3 inches) of gravel in the bottom of the trench. This compact layer of soil rammer.
- Mix a batch of ready-mixed mortar with water according to the package instructions to achieve a consistency like brownie batter. First for the mortar with a trowel and make small piles along the trench.
- Established stone bricks on the mortar, creating a single course of stones end-to-end. Apply mortar to the top of the stones of the first layer.
- Place another course of stones on top of the first layer. Apply mortar on the ends of each stone and rotate the stones so that everyone sits atop a joint in the first layer. Smooth the mortar into the joints with a jointer tool. Remove excess mortar before it dries on the surface of the stones.
- Continue to build the stone walls, a layer at a time, staggering the stones and smoothing the mortar in the joints, until you reach the desired height of your patio. Allow retaining walls to dry for at least 48 hours.
- Fill the courtyard area of the retaining walls with gravel. Spread a layer of 7.5 cm (3 inches), then the hand tamper compact. Continue spreading layers of 7.5 cm (3 inches) of gravel and compacting. Stop when the gravel is below the top of the retaining walls 5 cm (2 inches), plus the thickness of stone bricks.
- Place a layer of 5 cm (2 inches) of sand over the gravel. Smooth sand level, compacting with rammer.
- Place stone bricks for the patio surface, from a corner. Applying mortar to the ends and sides of each piece. Smooth the joints between the bricks stone tool assembler. Continue until all the patio area.
Building a stone patio brick that will last the life of your home does not have to be a difficult process. Using a base of sand instead of a concrete slab reduces the complexity of building their greatly patio. Not only you save effort, save time, without diminishing the stability and durability of the surface patio. With the right setup, you can complete the construction of the yard in one day.
- Decide on the overall look of your patio. It has a wide variety of sizes and colors of brick. Measure the size of your patio site to determine the area to cover and buy enough bricks to cover the area with an additional 10% in case of breakage and have some left for later replacements. Creating the size of your yard to contain many whole bricks as possible to avoid waste. Draw the pattern of purposeful design on a piece of paper to scale to facilitate sit on the patio.
- Place lawn flags around the perimeter of your yard to mark the edges of the proposed excavation.
- Dig the hole for the foundation of your yard to a depth of four inches with a shovel. Compress the floor of the hole with a plate compactor so its foundation is a company as possible. Rent a plate compactor rental shop store or home improvement equipment for use.
- Pour a layer of gravel in the hole an inch deep as the basis for the yard drainage. Go on gravel with the compressor to compress the gravel level. Level gravel to create a slope away from the foundation of the structures near the courtyard, so that the water drains away. Create a surface that tracks an inch every eight feet of surface patio.
- Pour a layer of sand in the hole an inch deep, cover the gravel. Sand level with a table of hearth after installation slope with gravel below. Veneer drag along the surface of the sand that even the Board working on a new movement to and.
- Place the bricks for the patio to the sand foundation, placing them at the surface level of the sand. Place the bricks so that butt joints, starting in one corner of the yard or to the side of a structure and work your way to the outer edge of the patio. Cut bricks when necessary adjustment using a circular saw with a saw blade attached mason.
- Place an edge paver clamp around the edges of the yard to create a line between the patio and lawn. Push restricting edge tightly against the edge of the courtyard and then the edge with 10-inch steel spikes driven through the edger on the ground instead of anchor.
- Sweep sand between the bricks to fill the joints between. Use a broom to push the polymeric sand into the joints between the bricks. Polymeric sand has an added binder which hardens the sand creating a more durable surface.
- Place a urethane pad on the patio surface, covering the bricks and compact with compactor plate. S pad protect the bricks from damage during compaction sand standing on boards and bricks placed firmly in the sand Foundation. Renting a place pad rent the compressor.
- Sweep the bricks again to ensure that the joints filled with sand and to remove the sand from the surface of the bricks. Wash the yard with water to clean any remaining sand and activate the hardener. Multiple uses of water may be necessary in accordance with the manufacturer of sand.
If you are ready to repair cracked or broken asphalt or cover an area to create a new path, there are many alternatives to asphalt paving look great, they are easy to install and cost less. Alternatives to asphalt paving are often more organic in appearance and allows more freedom to customize details such as color, texture and style.
Concrete is perhaps the most widely used alternative to asphalt paving, as this material is more flexible and can withstand the elements over asphalt. Where the asphalt is dependent on crude oil for production and binder, concrete is a mixture of sand available, rock and cement — the bonding agent. Concrete is also easier to prepare, as applied in a single layer using a mixture designed to meet specific load capacity. Concrete also can last up to 50 years and is available in almost any color.
Gravel and more
Gravel roads or mulch are attractive alternatives, natural asphalt paving. They tend to create a more cohesive look with patios, planters and other green areas. Mulch and gravel are available in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors. These natural materials also retain water better than asphalt and often cost less to install.
Stone and pavers
Natural stones and custom cut pavers are a great alternative to asphalt pavement, if you go for an elegant or traditional look. Molded bricks, shot falls or natural stone slates cut, arranged, add depth to sidewalks and driveways; however, it may be more expensive to install and maintain than conventional asphalt pavement. Stone offers more freedom in the design of roads; traditional asphalt roads have a limited number of combinations of pattern paver.
Sower of pebbles on the surface of the wet concrete floor adds visual interest. Create a finish in exposed gravel pavement is a DIY task that increases the total cost of the project only slightly. Gravel cement forms a flat, non-slip surface that adapts to driveways, sidewalks or patios. Choose smooth boulders, colors that complement the colors in your garden.
- Measure the area and add 3 inches on the sides to shape hints. Outline the site with landscape painting, marking next to a board so that the lines are straight.
- Discover the area with a shovel until a length of 8 inches deep with vertical walls. Press the bottom of a hand tamper on the surface for loose soil feels compact.
- Add added 3/4 inch in length and spread with a shovel. Introduce a measuring rod through the aggregate for compacting soil. Tamp the aggregate and add more to create a base of 5 inches thick. The base is packed flexible enough concrete buffer voltage land and water drain.
- Place boards in a 2 by 4 inches against the inner walls and screw with a drill. Support boards with studs around the outside perimeter.
- Mix concrete mix in a large truck with water using a paddle and drill. The composition should be thick but spreadable
- Pour the mixture over the base using a gauge rake to fill the corners and sides. Place a wooden board on the wet surface and pull it forward and backward to level.
- Put decorative stones on concrete with a shovel. Disseminate any small piles with a broom for even coverage. Place a board on top and pressed pebbles in concrete. Wait about two hours so that the surface can start configuring.
- Push the thin layer of cement paste around the sides of the stones with a stiff brush. Exposing only the top of pebbles so that they remain firmly embedded in the concrete. Hose off the cement removed.
- Cover the wet pavement, breathable fabric and keep it moist for one week.
- Seal the floor with clear and penetrating sealer with a brush roller to protect against water damage and wear.